Hello, it's been a long time. I hope this finds you well and warm.
Generally speaking the internet in Namibia is as rare as a copy of Pride and Prejudice in a barber shop waiting room! Not impossible but rare. Which is also true of rhinoceroses, (or is it 'rhinoceri') given that I have been looking for one for the last six weeks. Then like 'Londinium busei' eight turn up all at once.
Four nights ago at a place called Halali in Etosha National Park as I waited with at least twenty other expectant souls, seated on a rocky outcrop overlooking a large lodge waterhole, the following events unfolded.
The scene was set and like a theatre audience we sat hushed as the sun went down and the house floodlight turned up.
Nothing, not a thing.
Every now and again a local avian chorus rustled up an overture but that was it. No exiting stage left followed by a bear - not an animated aardvark!
After half an hour of this the audience became restless and fidgeting began. It's truly amazing how many things can be done with a camera without taking a picture.
Then stage left we saw him, a fully grown, huge, old, white rhinoceros. Instantly fidgeting was transformed into focusing, as he wandered, lonely as a cloud, across the stage to the water hole and began to drink, very slowly.
The old king
The play had begun.
It was truly breathtaking, before our very eyes dreams were becoming reality. This mystical creature was there, just being, playing his role in the world and capturing our hearts and imaginations with a stage presence to die for. Then to our collective delight, enter stage right, another rhinoceros appears and approaches the bar.
It was a classic Mexican stand off as they stood facing each other across the water. The dialogue was a bit mumbled but the meaning was clear. This was the old banished king meeting his nemesis, now become master - maybe!
The young king
Cue music........ but wait a moment, from out of the thicketed wings other rhinoceri appear. The new group are females and there are now five actors on stage, distracting the two protagonists and lessening the tension. At this point the old King seeks to reinstate his authority by going for a swim!
He lies photogenically soaking as another group of two females and a young male make their entrance. As they mingle about rubbing heads and bodies together in greeting, occasionally someone's personal space is invaded and a loud snorting proceeds a rapid retreat by the offender.
And so the characters are established, each having their place and as a wise man has said: "all the worlds a stage and all men and women merely players; they have their exits and their entrances. And one man in his time plays many parts". I think this is as true for a rhinoceros as it is for a human being and if they are conscious, then they too are such stuff as dreams are made on, and their little life is also rounded with a sleep.
The new king quite suddenly remembers that his older rival is but a few yards away and he wades into the water to confront the old man. With a mock charge and much bellowing he steals the scene and intimidated the old one seeks the safety of dry land as the maidens look on.
Whatever the human audience feel about men behaving badly is passionately projected onto the protagonists and the tension rises again. This goes on for some time and the maidens become restless. One of them enters the water to support the younger male who now seems completely confused. Then as quickly as it started the two kings move towards the females and begin to talk in huddles, moving closely together and communicating intensely. Eventually the group disperse back into the darkness and the play is ended.
It has been an extraordinary few hours and the audience also return to their beds, humbled and blessed by what we have witnessed.